Let us take the issue of housing first of all, as it is usually the first thing people consider when first deciding to own a chinchilla.

 Cage Type

Chinchillas can be housed in an all-wire (16 gauge, 3/4 inch galvanised mesh) cage.  Wooden and plastic cages are not good enough, simply because the average chinchilla will chew them to pieces in no time at all!

 Cages with larger squared mesh (1 inch square) are not considered to be as good, for several reasons:

 1.  Kits can escape through mesh that is only 1 inch square!

2.  Larger squared mesh is not as comfortable for chinchillas to stand on (probably).

3.  It may be easier for "cage accidents" to occur with larger squared mesh.

 Having a wire-bottomed is very useful, in my opinion.  It should not cause the chinchilla to have sore feet (unlike rabbits who may get sore hocks from all-wire cages) provided the cage is well maintained.  Chinchillas have pretty hard skin on their feet.  However, always ensure that the chinchilla can get off the wire when it wishes to.  Wooden shelves, nestboxes and pads will provide plenty of opportunity for a chinchilla to leave the wire.

 The wire floor's main function is to allow the waste debris to fall into the drop-tray below, keeping it away from the chinchilla's highly absorbent and easily soiled fur, and allows for easy cleaning out.  Chinchillas can get dreadfully "pen-stained" from solid-bottomed cages if they are not cleaned out often enough.  On the whole, I find all-wire cages much more hygienic.

 The cage does not have to be extra-tall, as chinchillas are rock-hoppers by nature, not tree-climbers, and they do appreciate floor-space rather than height, so go for long cages, rather than high cages.

Cage "Furnishings"

Chinchillas do not require any bedding, but, as already stated above, untreated pine platforms, shelves and nestboxes will give them somewhere off the wire (if they wish) to sleep, chew, run and play on.

 Pine shelves and nestboxes are easily cleaned with a mild pet-safe disinfectant and are also easily replaced when the chinchillas have finished gnawing through them - a pastime that all chinchillas enjoy!

 An integrated hay-rack keeps things nicely contained and saves having to put the hay inside the cage, where it may become soiled and then consumed, as this practice may encourage mild digestive upsets.

 Built-in food "hoppers" I  also find extremely useful.  Many of my own chinchillas have irritating habits of overturning, or even worse, peeing in, china food-bowls, and having integrated food containers usually eliminates these annoying things.

Where to Put the Chinchilla Cage?

The cage should be positioned in a room that does not have too much noise or "through-traffic".  Although, undoubtedly, chinchillas become accustomed to the hustle and bustle of a family home, nevertheless, it is thoughtful to allow them peace and quiet at certain times of the day so they can rest undisturbed.

 The chinchilla's environment should also be damp and draft-free.  Chinchillas can withstand cold temperatures, without any additional heating, provided they are free from damp and drafts. 

 It is best not to position the cage close to a window or heater, even in the winter, as chinchillas have been known to get heat-stressed just from that alone!

 In the summer months the chinchillas can suffer if they are allowed to become over-heated, due to their extremely dense fur.  During those summer days when the temperature exceeds 70 degrees, exercise and anything that may cause increased heart-rate (such as travelling) should be avoided until the cooler evening hours.  Curtain's drawn, a fan or even an air conditioner are very useful in helping to keep the chinchillas cool on very hot days.  Failing that, bottles of frozen water placed around the cage will help too.  Obviously, it is not recommended that chinchillas be kept in conservatories during the summer months, for obvious reasons.

Breeding Considerations

Tall cages are to be avoided when considering breeding chinchillas.  The kits are extremely active within hours of birth, and will attempt to climb up the sides of their cage.  However, they are not sure what to do when they get to the top, and frequently just let go.  In tall cages the risk of injury when/if they fall is considerably increased.  

 Another consideration, if breeding chinchillas, is to make sure that you have plenty of spare cages for weaning any offspring, separating sexes to avoid interbreeding, and separating the male from the female once in a while, to give the female a well-earned rest and to avoid over-breeding her.

Where to get the Cages from?

Choose a cage that fits in with your requirements and surroundings, and suits your chinchillas requirements too.  Make sure that it is good-quality (as it has to last the lifetime of the chinchilla) and is easy to clean out.

 A good cage should last for 10 years +, and therefore will not come cheaply, so expect to pay in excess of £60 for a standard 3 foot cage.

 Some pet-shops stock good quality chinchilla cages, however, chinchilla breeders and chinchilla equipment stockists get my personal recommendation though, as the best places to source quality chinchilla cages from.

 Just remember that in taking your time in finding the best and most suitable cage for you and your chinchillas, results in contented chinchillas and owners for the many years to come.

Housing chinchillas outside

Many people prefer to house their chins in an outside unit.  This is quite feasible, but unless you have a native climate similar to the Andes, outdoor housing may not be suitable for chinchillas, and certain adaptations will need to be carried out.

Ideally a well-ventilated, insulated, brick-built outhouse is perfect, but failing that, a wooden shed can be adapted for use.

Here are a few hints and tips.

Light

East facing windows are ideal (for ventilation and natural light).  This way, chinchillas will only get a little morning sun (provided they are not in direct sunlight).   A day/night cycle is very important for chinchillas as it enables them to “set” their biorhythms by means of hormone production.  In hot weather the windows can be painted with greenhouse paint, to reflect the sun.

Vermin and Security

Any windows and doors should have mesh covers, to stop vermin from entering or chins escaping, and the door should be able to be locked to stop unwelcome human intruders!!

Appliances

Electrical sockets are important, for lighting and appliances.  For safety reasons, always ensure the power-source is always connected to a circuit-breaker. 

A dehumidifer is essential, especially if the climate has a tendency to be wet or damp. A chinchilla's dense fur is highly absorbent and will lose it's superb insulating properties unless an outdoor shed/unit is dehumidified (even though the chin may have access to a sandbath - this may not be enough).  In warm and moist conditions can also harbor fungal organisms. 

Air-conditioners are also highly recommended during the warmer weather, as chinchillas cannot tolerate heat.

Heating is only necessary in the winter, if their drinking water is likely to freeze up.  Fully enclosed electric ceramic tubular heaters are ideal and present no fire-risk. 

Single-cage heating is better during the cooler weather, for use if a chinchilla is ill or litters are expected, as new-born young are vulnerable to the cold.   A reptile heat-pad is suitable (do not allow the chinchillas to chew these under any circumstances!!) or you can make your own cage-heaters by placing a low-wattage bulb into a biscuit tin - and placing that under a portion of the cage.

Shed Adaptions

The entire shed (especiallly the roof) should be lined with loft insulation, for warmth in the winter and cool in the summer (using non-toxic, fire-retardant rock-wool or similar).  The shed can then be lined inside with marine-ply (or similar) throughout and painted white (if desired). The floor can be covered with cheap linoleum, so floors can be cleaned with pet-safe disinfectant.

 A white-painted roof helps reflect heat in the summer, and/or a secondary roof can be added, to provide a heat-reflecting cover.  Ensure that there is at least a 4 inch gap between the 2 roofs, to allow an air-flow.

Ventilation

 Stable doors can be useful - so the top part of the door can be opened for extra ventilation (adequate ventilation is vital for health).  A "through draft" is very important, so vents should be fitted at opposite ends to allow a breeze to ventilate the shed.

 This all may seem rather complicated, but once correctly set-up, a shed or out-building can provide a safe and comfortable living environment for chinchillas, no matter what the weather.